I have known about this little museum in Holborn for some year’s but hadn’t visited it until recently.
Located at the north side of Lincoln’s Inn Fields, entry is free. A volunteer stands outside, checking bags and either asks you to leave them in the cloakroom or provides small carrier bags. Interesting, I thought. What’s all this about. All was to become apparent.
Unlike most museums, entry is via the gift shop. Exit is also that way, although I didn’t realise that on the way in. They recommend that you start in the basement and move upwards. The friend whom I accompanied told me that they were a couple of tours of the private apartments, so we immediately went to sign up for one of those, then started our own tour. I now understood why they didn’t want people carrying big bags around…
Who was Sir John Sloane?
John Sloan (he added the ‘e’ later), as he started life, was the son of a bricklayer, who lived between 1753 and 1837. Soane’s father died when he was 14 years old, so the family moved to live with his brother, William. William was also a bricklayer. To cut a long story short, William got John a job on a building site where he was introduced to a surveyor, James Peacock. Peacock saw architectural sketches that Sloane was working on and introduced him to George Dance (the Younger). Dance came from an architectural family and is famous for the front of the Guildhall in the City, and for the rebuilding of Newgate Prison in 1770.)
Thus, Soane’s architectural career began. He, like Dance, did the ‘Grand Tour,’ which subsequently influenced his style. Sloane is most famous for his work at the Bank of England, where he was employed for 45 years. Sadly, most of Soane’s work was demolished by Sir Herbert Baker, an act which has been described as “the greatest architectural crime in the City of London in the twentieth century.” Soane also did work at the Royal Hospital, Chelsea, some of which did survive the Second World War.
The Museum
The museum is based at 13 Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Soane actually bought three houses and then re-built them (not all at once). He started with number 12. Number 14 was purchased much later, when Soane was aged 70.
Starting in the basement, in the kitchen area, lulled me into a false sense of security. There is a huge range and a display table in the centre. Apart from that, it was fairly empty. Turn left into the scullery and then down a passage and the reason for no bags becomes apparent.
The place is absolutely choc-o-bloc with various collections, including the sarcophagus of the Egyptian King Seti I. Gargoyles and other wall mountings, paintings and who knows what else. Most of it is not what I would want to decorate my house, even if I had the room.
One of the fascinating features is the stained-glass windows, and the skylights midway through the house. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to take photographs inside.
We were fortune enough to book onto a tour of the private apartments, which are at the top of the house. Amazing that they managed to get the same wallpaper made for his wife’s bedroom. Theirs was a relatively short marriage, and Soane kept his wife’s rooms as they were for many years after her death but eventually needed the space for more of his collection, so they now contain more paintings.
Soane had two sons, one of whom died quite young. The other was a ne’er-do-well, a bit too fond of the wine, women and song, so in 1833, Soane arranged for an Act of Parliament to be passed to maintain his house and collection at the time of his death. He did not want it falling into the hands of the ne’er-do-well son. The Act also decreed that the house should be open to the public for free for ‘inspiration and education.’ The house is managed by a board of trustees,
Over 100,000 visitors a year visit, free of charge, although the museum does ask for donations. Check out https://www.soane.org/ for information about opening times, etc.
© Susan Shirley 2019























